Traditional panettone recipe

Some might call it sacrilegious to lump these two iconic breads into one recipe. Or naïve, considering their geographically related but misaligned history. I can’t help but recommend using the same dough for both, though. They’re both soft, fluffy-centred and heavily enriched doughs where we aim for the lightest of light textures. They’re both celebration centrepieces: the pandoro (pan d’oro – golden bread) was enjoyed by the nobility of historic Verona and the panettone by Milanese high society.

Modern pandori tend to be a little drier, firm and brioche-like, whereas panettoni makers strive to maintain their fluffy, soft origins. The pandoro is simpler: all the ingredients are purchasable in your local small supermarket. If you don’t have a pandoro tin, you can use a tall cake tin. The panettone, if you want to present or gift it, requires you to purchase paper moulds, a specific extract and, for an authentic loaf, you’ll need Italian candied citrus peel. At a push, you can substitute orange blossom water and supermarket mixed peel.

Both loaves will last for a very long time following baking, and make ideal Christmas gifts. And both require plenty of baking itself, so it helps to take it steadily and not get the oven too hot: because of their shape, the centre takes a long time to heat up compared with a traditional loaf. If you have a thermometer, I’d double check that the middle has reached 96ºC (205ºF) before removing them from the oven.

This dough requires that you follow all of the tenets of sourdough. It is notoriously difficult. You want to push your gluten development to the maximum without causing it to break. It really helps to have an electric mixer.

Extracted from The Ultimate Guide to Sourdough, James Morton (Quadrille, £30.00) Photography by Andy Sewell.

Panettone Main Ingredients


For the Autolyse

  • 60g very active white sourdough starter
  • 250g strong white flour
  • 70g tepid-warm water
  • 6 large egg yolks, at room temperature

For Stage 1

  • 85g caster sugar
  • 15g good-quality runny honey (Scottish heather honey is best)
  • 3g salt

For Stage 2

  • 125g unsalted butter, softened
  • vegetable or other flavourless oil, for shaping

After Stage 2

  • 1 tsp good vanilla extract, ½ tsp vanilla paste or seeds scraped from ½ split vanilla pod
  • 1 tsp Aroma Panettone, or orange blossom water as a substitute
  • 100g sultanas
  • 100g Italian candied citrus peel
  • 2 wooden skewers

Traditional Panettone Recipe

  1. Around 8–12 hours before you start, take your white sourdough starter out of the fridge. Give it a feed, then leave at room temperature for this time. If it isn’t very active after this, delay baking by another day and give it another feed that evening. You should only use it if it’s very active.
  2. In a large bowl, weigh your autolyse ingredients. Mix them together until combined into a rough but homogeneous dough. Cover your bowl and leave it somewhere warm for an hour or so.
  3. Now add the ‘stage 1’ ingredients to your bowl. Mix everything together and knead vigorously for 10–15 minutes. You want your dough to windowpane properly. Anything less isn’t enough, so if you have a mixer, use it.
  4. Leave your dough to prove for 3 hours, preferably somewhere warm. It’s a slow-proving dough, so it should be showing some signs of activity at this point, but not be doubled or tripled in size.
  5. Add in your ‘stage 2’ butter. Again, it’s time to use your electric mixer if you have it. If not, it’s going to take a wee while for you to combine the butter into your dough by kneading. Once the butter is combined, add the vanilla for pandoro, or vanilla, Aroma Panettone, sultanas and peel for panettone. Mix some more until completely combined.
  6. Cover and prove for another 4–6 hours, or until you’re noticing it has risen a little more. Stretch and fold at this point, then cover and stick in the fridge. Prove here for anything between 12 and 24 hours.
  7. At some point while it is proving, you want to grease your pandoro tin with plenty of butter, or prepare your panettone case by poking two wooden skewers in line with the base: this allows you to hang your panettone upside down.
  8. Turn your dough out onto your work surface. Divide into the number of loaves you require, and pre-shape, using a little extra water, or even a little vegetable or other flavourless oil to help you. Once pre-shaped, bench rest for an hour. After 30 minutes, if the dough has spread significantly, pre-shape again and leave for the remaining time.
  9. Shape, using a little oil, as you would for boules. Because of the relatively low gluten content in this recipe, this can be quite difficult. Place the dough in your prepared tin or case.
  10. This final prove is very important because it gives you an idea of your potential for rise. Don’t worry if your dough, so far, sits quite low in your tin or case. It will rise, probably tripling in size. Then the oven spring should be magnificent. Allow to prove somewhere warm, such as near a heater, for 3–5 hours.
  11. After this time, your loaf will be ready to bake. It helps to put the tin or case on a baking stone for even greater oven spring; preheat this to at least 220ºC (430ºF)/200ºC (400ºF) fan/Gas 7. You want to do this at least 45 minutes before baking.
  12. Score the top in a cross shape. Transfer your proved loaves to the oven and add steam by placing a cast-iron pan filled with water in the bottom of the oven.
  13. Turn your oven down to 190ºC (375ºF)/170ºC (340ºF) fan/Gas 5. Bake for 1 hour, or until a deep, dark brown on top. If you have a digital probe thermometer, check the centre: you want it to be over 96ºC (205ºF).
  14. Your panettone should be cooled upside down. You can pile up books, or use two Kilner (Mason) jars as a rest: those wooden skewers should hold your bread upside down to prevent shrinkage as it cools.
  15. Store in a tin (an old shop-bought panettone tin works, obviously), an airtight container, or wrapped in cling film (plastic wrap). Kept airtight, they will last for weeks.
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