Miso pasta in a bowl

Japanese cuisine expert Nancy Singleton Hachisu explains ‘what is miso’, and describes how to use miso in different recipes and which miso to buy. She lives on a farm in Japan and has written four cookbooks on Japanese food. This extract is taken from Food Artisans of Japan, published by Hardie Grant.

How is miso made?

Use miso for an earthy umami flavor. Japan is a country that adheres deeply to the concept of mottainai (‘no waste’), and miso embodies that philosophy perfectly. When producing shoyu or tamari (soy sauce), the soy bean mash is pressed for the rich salty liquid, and the solids are left behind. 

Not so with miso: the base ingredient (always soybeans in Japan), koji spore–inoculated grain or pulse (rice, barley or soybeans), salt, and perhaps a small amount of seed miso (miso thinned with water), all come together to make the final product. 

As a paste, miso is not quite as easy to dash into non-Japanese cooking because of its viscosity and pronounced earthy quality. But if you start with a well-made miso, a little bit can add a deep, round salt note to many foods. 

What constitutes a well-made miso? Most important: it should taste good. The salt and fermented beer-like notes should be well balanced with no sourness. 

Miso

What to eat with miso

  1. Dip carrots, celery, radishes, turnips, green peppers (capsicums) or cucumbers in miso in the summertime for a before-dinner snack. 
  2. Whisk a little miso into homemade mayonnaise (shoyu is also delicious). 
  3. Miso-based vinaigrettes (oil, miso and rice vinegar in a ratio of 2:1:1) are an excellent foil for julienned root vegetables or peppery mizuna leaves.
  4. Salt some fish, poultry or pork lightly, then lay a double piece of muslin (cheesecloth) over the top before slathering on a paste made of miso thinned with sake and/or mirin, and leave it to marinate in the fridge for up to several days. 
  5. Miso also makes a brilliant pickling medium and can be used as is, loosened with sake and/or mirin, or with the addition of aromatics such as shichimi togarashi (seven-spice powder), dried red chili or slivered ginger. 
  6. A wide range of miso-based sauces is used in vegetable dishes: vinegar miso, mustard miso and dengaku miso (used as a glaze) are classic treatments.
  7. Aemono (‘dressed things’) such as shira-ae (smashed tofu), goma-ae (vegetables in sesame-miso dressing), and kurumi-ae (vegetables in walnut sauce) include miso as a key component and can be incorporated into most non-Japanese meals. The flavour profile and sweet-to-acid balance of these dishes will vary with the cook. 

How to buy miso

  1. In general, first check the label when buying miso. Authentic and aesthetically pleasing front labels will first catch your eye. Next, pick up the package and read the back label for ingredients. 
  2. Avoid products with sweeteners, MSG, preservatives, vitamin B2 (for preserving and color enhancement) and alcohol (to stabilize and preserve). Nothing compares to the highest quality Japanese misos such as our local Yamaki Jozo miso (which is starting to be available abroad). 

However, there are local miso makers popping up all over the world. Some are better than others. Companies that have been around since the 1970s are arguably doing the best job at making authentic misos, although some I have sampled have been oxidized, and are thus darker and denser than I think they should be. This is not a deal breaker, just something to keep in mind. 

More concerning is the newer miso companies cropping up that are marketing barely fermented, or poorly fermented, miso, with the iconic miso flavour missing. Worse yet are the miso companies attempting to capture their own wild koji spores for fermentation – without success. The unfortunate result is decidedly not miso.

Miso

What are the different types of miso?

  1. Kome (White Rice) Miso: From quick-fermented white (shiro) miso and Kaga miso to 6-month- or 1-year-fermented country-style (inaka) miso, kome miso represents a fairly wide range of flavours. Quick-fermented varieties are made with an appreciably larger percentage of koji than other misos, and have a sweet and only slightly salty profile. These varieties are good for adding a gentle miso flavor to vegetable dishes or fish marinades. Inaka miso is an excellent choice as a starter miso since it is mild, yet still has heady fermentation notes for savory dishes. 
  2. Genmai (Brown Rice) Miso: Fermented for 6 months to 1 year (one summer) from soybeans, brown rice koji and salt. Bright and rich, genmai miso is probably the most immediately accessible of the darker varieties of miso, and is versatile as a seasoning for most dishes because of its lustrous flavour profile. [Sous Chef tip: Try our red miso paste for a hit of richer, stronger flavoured miso]
  3. Mugi (Barley) Miso: Soybeans, barley koji and salt, traditionally fermented for 6 months to 1 year (one summer). Solid, luscious and fragrant from the barley, mugi miso is particularly good in simmered dishes, but absolutely delicious in just about anything. Highly favored in Western Europe – perhaps because mugi miso goes well with olive oil. 
  4. Mame (Soybean) Miso: Long-fermented for 2 to 3 years from soybeans, soybean koji and salt. Dark and deeply flavored with lovely beery notes, mame miso makes rich winter broths, and is a good candidate for mixing with lighter miso varieties (awase miso) to add overall complexity. Hatcho miso is a type of mame miso produced in Aichi prefecture in central-eastern Japan and is weighted with massive rocks for 2½   years. 

Read more: The ultimate guide to tofu


5 Miso Recipes

Now you’ve read Nancy Singleton Hachisu’s guide to miso, take a look at these 5 miso recipes and discover new ways to use the versatile Japanese ingredient in your everyday cooking. 

MORE: Buy your copy of Nancy’s book Food Artisans of Japan

Miso Ramen Recipe

Miso Ramen

Adding miso to ramen is a brilliant way to add rich, salty seasoning to your broth. The earthy savouriness is particularly good with pickled bamboo shoots, tangy spring onions and dried nori seaweed sheets. Try the recipe now!

Miso Soup with Buckwheat Noodles

Miso Soup with Buckwheat Noodles

 

Make a really good miso soup with layers of flavour and different textures from soft tofu, soba noodles and mushrooms. This recipe uses the steeping liquor from rehydrated mushrooms for even more umami notes. Full recipe here.

Miso & Maple-Glazed Aubergines by Niki Webster

Miso & Maple-Glazed Aubergines by Niki Webster

Pairing miso with maple syrup creates a heavenly sweet and salty combo, which reduces down to a rich sticky glaze on these baked aubergines. Serve on sticky coconut rice. Click through for the full recipe.

Pork Tonkatsu with Miso & Cabbage

Pork Tonkatsu with Miso & Cabbage

Miso works really well in a simple dressing with rice vinegar, sesame oil and soy sauce. This pork tonkatsu is served with finely shredded cabbage salad, which has a lovely crunch. Try the recipe for yourself now!

Tofu in Miso Sauce

Tofu in Miso Sauce

For a light lunch, or as part of a bigger meal, this tofu dressed in miso sauce really hits the spot. Serve the dish with rice, fresh salads and pickled vegetables for a quick and easy burst of miso flavour. Try the recipe here.


How to Use Miso Paste

Cooking Techniques

When using miso paste in your cooking, a few techniques can help maximise its unique flavours.

  • For soups, dissolve the miso paste in a small amount of hot water before adding it to ensure even distribution.
  • Avoid boiling miso, as high heat can destroy its beneficial enzymes and alter its savory flavor. Instead, add it towards the end of cooking. Miso brings an umami flavour that enhances the richness of various dishes.
  • For marinades, combine miso with other ingredients like soy sauce, sake, or mirin to create a balanced mixture. This works well for meats, fish, and vegetables, imparting a deep umami taste. Miso paste can also be whisked into dressings for salads or drizzled over roasted vegetables.
  • When baking, white miso can add a surprising depth to sweet treats like cookies and cakes. Understanding these cooking techniques can help you integrate miso paste seamlessly into your culinary repertoire.

Popular Recipes

Miso paste is a versatile ingredient that can enhance a variety of recipes. A classic dish is miso soup, where miso paste is dissolved in dashi broth and combined with ingredients like tofu, seaweed, and spring onions.

Another popular recipe is miso-glazed salmon, where a mixture of miso, soy sauce, and mirin is used to marinate the fish before grilling. Miso ramen is also a favourite, featuring a rich broth flavoured with miso paste, noodles, and an assortment of toppings such as pork, eggs, and vegetables.

For a unique twist, try miso butter, which combines miso paste with softened butter, perfect for spreading on bread or melting over steamed vegetables. These popular recipes showcase the diverse applications of miso paste, allowing you to explore its rich flavours in both traditional and innovative dishes.

Try our miso ramen recipe here!

Storage Tips

Proper storage is essential to maintaining the quality and flavour of miso paste. Once opened, miso paste should be kept in an airtight container to prevent it from drying out and absorbing other odours from the fridge.

Store it in the refrigerator, where it can last for up to a year, thanks to its high salt content, which acts as a preservative. It's important to keep the surface of the miso paste smooth and free from air pockets to minimise oxidation, which can alter its taste and colour.

If you notice any darkening or dryness on the surface, simply scrape it off before use. For long-term storage, you can also freeze miso paste in portions, as it remains soft and easy to scoop even when frozen.

Following these storage tips will ensure that your miso paste stays fresh and ready for your next culinary adventure.

Health Benefits of Miso

Nutritional Profile

Miso paste is not only known for its rich flavour but also for its impressive nutritional profile. Including soy foods like miso in your diet can provide health benefits such as reducing bone loss and improving bone mineral density.

It is a good source of protein, making it a valuable addition to vegetarian and vegan diets. Miso is also rich in essential vitamins and minerals, including vitamins B2, B12, and E, as well as calcium, iron, and zinc.

The fermentation process used to create miso produces probiotics, beneficial bacteria that support gut health and improve digestion. Additionally, miso contains antioxidants, which help combat free radicals and may reduce the risk of chronic diseases.

Despite its health benefits, miso is high in sodium, so it should be consumed in moderation. Understanding the nutritional profile of miso paste allows you to appreciate its role not only as a flavour enhancer but also as a nutritious ingredient that can contribute to a balanced diet.

Probiotics and Gut Health

One of the standout health benefits of miso paste is its probiotic content, which plays a crucial role in supporting gut health. The fermentation process used to produce miso introduces beneficial bacteria, such as Lactobacillus, which can help maintain a healthy balance of gut flora.

These probiotics aid in digestion, improve nutrient absorption, and can boost the immune system. Regular consumption of probiotic-rich foods like miso may help alleviate digestive issues such as bloating, constipation, and irritable bowel syndrome (IBS).

Additionally, a healthy gut microbiome has been linked to better mental health, as gut bacteria produce neurotransmitters that influence mood and cognitive function. By incorporating miso paste into your diet, you can harness these probiotic benefits, promoting overall well-being and a healthier digestive system.

Antioxidant Properties

Miso paste is also renowned for its antioxidant properties, which contribute to its health benefits. Antioxidants are compounds that help neutralise free radicals—unstable molecules that can cause cellular damage and contribute to ageing and chronic diseases.

Miso contains several types of antioxidants, including phenolic acids and flavonoids, which help to protect the body's cells from oxidative stress. Regular consumption of antioxidant-rich foods like miso can support overall health by reducing inflammation and potentially lowering the risk of chronic conditions such as heart disease and cancer.

Additionally, the fermentation process enhances the bioavailability of these antioxidants, making them more effective in the body. By including miso paste in your diet, you can take advantage of its antioxidant properties, contributing to a healthier, more balanced lifestyle.

Browse more Japanese recipes here, or shop all our miso


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