Welsh Cakes Recipe

This recipe is extracted from The Big Book of Bread by James Morton (Quadrille, £30), Photography by Andy Sewell

The thing that’s taught me to be sensitive when writing recipes for breads or dishes from other countries is that I know what a minefield it can be even within our own British Isles. Even mentioning the word ‘scone’ I know I’ll be met with scoffs and scowls.

And in truth, Welsh cakes are somewhat odd – they’re almost as though a sweet pastry, a fruit scone and a pancake had some kind of lovechild. The texture of the dough is pastry-like, but cooked like a dropped scone or Scotch pancake on a cast iron griddle or high-sided pan. Through the use of the baking powder, they puff up, lose their biscuit-like quality and remain soft. Sprinkled generously in sugar, they keep remarkably well, but they’re best eaten fresh, in the afternoon, with a cup of tea out of a floral mug. They’re dead easy and perfect for making with kids.

If you’re not familiar with mixed spice, this is a traditional British ground spice mix, usually of ginger, cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. Most of us have a jar that’s years old and has lost much of its potency, and this is a perfect time to use it.

Try James' recipes for Colomba di Pasqua or Vollkornbrot


Ingredients for Welsh Cakes


How to make Welsh Cakes

  1. Start by sorting the dry ingredients. Put the flour, baking powder, sugar and mixed spice (if using) into a large bowl. Weigh the butter, then rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs (a few lumps are fine).
  2. Break in the egg, add the milk and currants and mix with a butter knife or wooden spoon to form a dough. If the dough is too dry, you can add a touch more milk.
  3. Turn your dough out onto a lightly floured surface, then sprinkle with some more flour. Roll out the dough to a thickness of about 5–10 mm – thicker than pastry, thinner than a scone. Use a cutter to cut out rounds however big you like, and if you don’t have a cutter, use the rim of a mug or glass. As you’re cutting, I would stick a heavy high-sided pan or cast iron griddle over a medium–low heat to get it up to temperature.
  4. Cook the Welsh cakes for about 3–4 minutes on each side until golden brown and cooked through. Be sure to flip them carefully so they don’t break apart. Once cooked, I put them between the folds of a dish towel so they keep warm and continue to cook through. Then you can dust with caster sugar and serve them warm, or let cool and keep them in an airtight container or cake tin for when neighbours come knocking for a cup of tea, if you’re fortunate enough to live somewhere that still happens. Wales, maybe.
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