Indonesian Pastes (Bumbus) by Petty Elliot

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Bumbus are essential spice pastes used to impart flavour and aroma to Indonesian dishes. We use five – white, red, yellow, black and green – mainly to flavour proteins such as fish, meat, tempeh or tofu. Bumbus are a fragrant combination of garlic, shallots, fresh root spices (ginger, galangal or turmeric) and, except for white paste, chillies. Traditionally, the paste is ground using a pestle and mortar; however, in regions such as Bali and Manado, the ingredients are finely chopped. I recommend a full quantity of paste for every 1 kg/2 lb 4 oz of protein. You could also double the recipe and store it in an airtight container, topped with oil, in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

This recipe was extracted from 'The Indonesian Table' by Petty Elliott (published by Phaidon Press)

MORE: Try Petty's Mixed Salad with Spicy and Tangy Peanut Sauce (Gado Gado) or Bagor Tempeh Laksa. And read her exclusive Q&A with Sous Chef on what makes Indonesian food so exciting.

White Spice Paste

Bumbu Putih

This foundational recipe is the basis for the spice pastes in my book. I also use it in my Vegetable Curry and Fragrant Chicken Curry.

Makes about 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup)

White Spice Paste Ingredients

2 candlenuts or macadamia nuts, coarsely ground (optional)
2–3 tablespoons coconut oil or sunflower oil
4 cloves garlic, sliced
2–3 small banana shallots, sliced
20 g/¾ oz fresh root ginger, sliced
10 g/¼ oz galangal, thinly sliced

White Spice Paste Method

If using the candlenuts, heat a frying pan over medium-low heat.
Add the candlenuts and dry-roast for 3–4 minutes. Transfer the candlenuts to a plate.
Combine all the ingredients in a blender and blend into a smooth paste. It is now ready for use in a recipe.

Red Spice Paste

Bumbu Merah

A red bumbu will always have two types of red chillies: bird’s eye chillies impart the fiery kick, while large yet mild red chillies add volume and lend fruitiness. If you prefer a milder paste, seed the chillies or simply reduce the quantity of bird’s eye chillies.

Makes 110 g/3¾ oz (generous ½ cup)

Red Spice Paste Ingredients

1. 1 quantity White Spice Paste (page 43)
2. 4–6 red bird’s eye chillies, coarsely chopped
3. 2 large red chillies, coarsely chopped

Red Spice Paste Ingredients

Combine all the ingredients in a small blender and blend into a smooth paste.

Yellow Spice Paste

Bumbu Kuning

Turmeric will change the flavour and colour of white and red basic pastes. You can create a mild yellow spice paste by omitting the chillies entirely, but it won’t have the same impactful flavour or colour.

Makes 115 g/4 oz (generous ½ cup)

Yellow Spice Paste Ingredients

1 quantity White Spice Paste (page 43)
4–6 red bird’s eye chillies, coarsely chopped
2 large red chillies, coarsely chopped
15 g/½ oz fresh turmeric or 1–2 teaspoons ground turmeric

Yellow Spice Paste Method

Combine all the ingredients in a small blender and blend into
a smooth paste.

Black Spice Paste

Bumbu Kluwak

This spice paste is made with fermented black (kluwak) nuts, which come from the kepayang tree. Often added to stews and soups, they impart an earthy, nutty flavour with a hint of acidity and deep black colour. They may be substituted with a black olive tapenade.

Makes 135 g/4¾ oz (¾ cup)

Black Spice Paste Ingredients

4 black (kluwak) nuts or 25 g/1 oz black olive tapenade
1 quantity White Spice Paste (page 43)
4–6 red bird’s eye chillies, coarsely chopped
2 large red chillies, coarsely chopped
15 g/½ oz fresh turmeric or 1–2 teaspoons ground turmeric

Black Spice Paste Method

Soak the nuts in a bowl of water overnight.
Crack open and remove the flesh. Combine all the ingredients in a small blender and blend into a smooth paste.

Green Spice Paste

Bumbu Hijau

Use this green spice paste for green sambals and fish curry. Green tomatoes and lime juice give it a touch of acidity.

Makes 280 g/10 oz (generous 1 cup)

Green Spice Paste Ingredients

10 large green chillies, coarsely chopped
6–8 green bird’s eye chillies
3 tablespoons coconut oil
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 banana shallots, coarsely chopped
Juice of ½–1 lime
Salt, to taste

Green Spice Paste Method

Bring 500 ml/17 fl oz (generous 2 cups) of water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the chillies and cook for 5–7 minutes until softened.
Drain the chillies, then place them into a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to stop the cooking process and retain the vibrant colour. Coarsely chop, then set aside.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and sauté for 6–8 minutes, until softened and fragrant.
Add the chillies and cook for another 3–4 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend well. Put the paste into a bowl and stir in the lime juice. Season to taste with salt.

Tamarind Paste

Asam Jawa

Tamarind paste and tamarind water can be found at larger supermarkets, but it is also easy to make at home. The flavour and colours of shop-bought tamarind paste may be convenient, but some products may lack the sharp intensity of a home-made version. All recipes in the book call for home-made tamarind paste; however, if you are using a shop-bought tamarind paste, I encourage you to taste your dish frequently and add more as needed.

Makes 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant ½ cup)

Tamarind Paste Ingredients

50 g/1¾ oz tamarind pulp, torn into small pieces

Tamarind Paste Method

Put the tamarind pulp into a bowl and add 200 ml/ 7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) of hot water. Soak for 15 minutes. Using your hand, squeeze the pulp. Strain, then discard the solids.
Put the tamarind paste into a small saucepan and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 2–3 minutes. Leave to cool. Tamarind paste can be stored in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

Variation: