Poppy Okotchka on How Gardens Grow Us
We’re delighted to share recipes and extracts from Poppy Okotcha, winner of the 2024 Jane Grigson Trust Sous Chef Award.
Poppy is a writer and cook with a deep-rooted love for seasonal, local and foraged ingredients, weaving together food, place, and story in ways that are both nourishing and inspiring. Her work champions a thoughtful connection to the land and celebrates the everyday magic of ingredients often found close to home, from wild garlic gathered in ancient woodlands to honey infused with summer sunshine.
The Jane Grigson Trust Award celebrates new voices in food writing, and Poppy’s distinctive style reflects that legacy: lyrical, grounded, and brimming with curiosity.
Her book invites us not only to cook, but to notice and cherish the natural abundance around us.
Extracted from A Wilder Way - How gardens grow us, by Poppy Okotcha.
Wild Garlic Salt
- 30g wild garlic leaves and stalks, washed
- 250g salt flakes
Around the same time the hens start to lay again, the wild garlic comes out, and by mid-April it has established dense fields of pungent emerald green.
Wild garlic is an indicator, along with bluebells and wood anemones, of an ancient woodland. In the UK it means that the woodland has been in existence since at least the 1600s. These days, that’s not so common. Ancient woodlands are very special places, so enjoy and respect them. It is important not to pick wild garlic right when it first emerges. Wait until it has put on some growth and is well established, and always avoid over-harvesting.
This recipe preserves the sharp, fresh garlickiness of spring- time woodlands – it’s good for you too. In terms of health benefits, wild garlic is even more potent than regular cultivated bulbs.
- All measurements are approximate – the salt flakes should be fully coated in the green garlic paste but not so wet that they retain any moisture after drying.
- In a food processor, blitz the wild garlic into a paste with a pinch of salt.
- In a bowl, stir the paste into the remaining salt flakes until well combined. They will turn an emerald green.
- Using a spatula, spread the now-damp green flakes onto a large platter or tray lined with baking parchment. Loosely cover with a clean tea towel and set aside in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Leave them to dry for a day (or perhaps two depending on the climate).
- Once they’ve dried and the salt has regained its crunch, jar them up and store in a cool dark place. The salt will gradually lose its pungency over time. So enjoy sooner rather than later.
- The tea towel will probably honk of garlic and need a wash!
Honey-Infused Garlic Recipe
On my way home from the community garden is a little stall on the side of the road which in summer offers bunches of flowers, jars of liquid-gold honey and an honesty box. The honey, which comes from bees kept by the homeowner opposite the stall, usually arrives on the stand a few weeks after we harvest the garlic.
I love this recipe for fermented garlic honey as it only requires two ingredients. The sharp earthiness of garlic mixes so well with the sweet headiness of honey. When I pour it over the stiff, pale little cloves of garlic, it feels like I’m wrapping them in the warm arms of the sun they so missed through winter.
This sweet, garlicky ferment makes an incredibly versatile ingredient. And, of course, our guts benefit from the microbes produced by the fermentation too. If possible, use raw honey for this recipe as the live yeasts will help to kick-start the process.
- Peel enough cloves of garlic to half fill a clean glass jar.
- Pour the raw honey over the garlic until it is fully submerged – some cloves may float up and that’s OK.
- Loosely secure the jar lid and leave in a dark place at room temperature for up to a week. The liquid provided by the garlic cloves will be enough to coax the hone into fermenting.
- Every few days, tighten the lid and shake the jar to agitate the ingredients, then loosen the lid again slightly to allow the ferment to breathe. As the fermentation takes place the honey will become more liquid and the garlic will change colour from white to a faint yellow or grey-brown tone.
- There is the option to add a modest splash of cider vinegar if you are nervous or the ferment not working.
- Taste test along the way, you may find you like it best earlier or later on! If you want to pause the ferment, just pop it in the fridge. After about a week, the ferment will be ready. It will keep in a cupboard for about a year.
Elderflower Vinegar
- 5–7 generous sprigs of elderflower blossom, gently rinsed to remove dirt and insects
- 500 ml cider vinegar
- In a large crock or glass jar, submerge the elderflower in the vinegar, weighing it down if needs be. Leave to infuse for a couple of days – it’s worth keeping an eye on the brew and tasting as you go. I like to remove the flowers before they turn a brownish colour because at that point, the flavour loses the fresh, soft floral tones and the vinegar becomes a bit darker.
- Use the flavoured vinegar in dressings, sauces, or add to water with honey to make a sweet, sharp soft drink.
